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94 ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
led across the frozen river on a sanded track, we set about
loading up. Two of the camels carried the baggage and
provisions, a third maize, for the animals’ own use, a fourth
was laden with thick logs of wood, and the three others
with huge blocks of ice, wrapped in goat-skins, for in the
desert we could not hope to find either fuel or water. Three
other camels, which were to accompany us for four days,
under the charge of three men, were likewise loaded with
ice and wood. This little supplementary caravan was put
under the charge of Parpi Bai.
When Islam reported that all was ready, our heavy cara-
van got under way, and marched slowly along the bank
of the Tarim towards the little lake of Tana-baghladi. At
its extreme southern end we halted for a little, hewed four
small holes in the ice, and for the last time let the camels
drink their fill ; and they seemed to understand what was
expected of them, for they drank and drank, swallowing
down the water in long gulping draughts, as if they never
meant to stop.
After crossing over a threshold or cross-ridge of high sand,
we encamped beside the last patch of thick kamish. Having
made a little clearing amongst the reeds, we managed to
get a certain amount of shelter against the wind, though
the sky was our roof.
When I awoke in the semi-darkness of the following
morning the storm was still raging ; nevertheless, we con-
tinued our slow plodding march to the ting-tang of the last
camel’s bell. The ground was soft and the camels sank in
deeply, especially the leader, which served as a " sand-
plough " for the others. I came last in the procession,
riding my little grey horse and keeping, of course, to the
track which the camels had trampled. Even thus early
the scene was one of appalling desolation. If there are
sand-deserts on the moon, I am positive they cannot be
more destitute of organic life than this was. There is
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