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158 ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
to parry, at all events to some extent, the worst onset
of the waves ; but in spite of all our efforts our canoe
gradually filled, and became a heavier and heavier dead-
weight to row. We were getting completely exhausted.
We could hardly hold out another minute. Although
the sun had not yet set, it was as dark as midnight.
What now ? What has happened ? As if by magic the
tumultuous water grew smooth. We could see nothing.
Sand-dunes on the Right Bank of the Tarim,
and yet the waves had almost entirely subsided, and their
crests were no longer whipped into foam. It was just as
though tons of oil had suddenly been poured upon the
lake. " Two feet of water !
" shouted Kirgui Pavan in
a tone of mingled triumph and relief. " Khodaim var !
"
It turned out that there was a long, narrow sandy headland
jutting out from the northern shore, and, without knowing
it, we had had the good fortune to land on the leeward side
of this, and it now acted as a breakwater, sheltering us
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