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EXPLORING THE LAKES OF TIBET. 191
Before twilight gave place to darkness we hurried up to
the top of the nearest hill to look for the caravan. But no
trace of either men or animals was to be discovered ;
the
entire scene was lifeless, soundless, and wild, almost un-
earthl}^ I felt as if I were setting foot in a monastic ruin
which had not been trodden for a thousand years. Whilst
Kutchuk gathered together the scrubby yapkak bushes,
which grew there pretty plentifully, I took a ramble on foot
amongst the hills. On a slope I found a bleached kulan’s
skull and the footprint of a bear in the soft ground. I
shouted, I listened ; but I could hear nothing of the
caravan, nor could I see any fire to show where it had
encamped.
It was dark when I returned to our landing-place, and
found that Kutchuk had gathered together a big heap of
fuel. We took counsel together what was to be done. It
was evident the caravan had met with some unexpected
hindrance, or else a couple of the men at least would have
come to the rendezvous to tell us what was amiss, and
—
most important of all—to bring us food, water and warm
clothing. How would it be if we took advantage of the
favourable wind, and sailed westwards ? No, that wouldn’t
do ; it was too dark, and the lake was too stormy for our
fragile boat.
There was nothing for it but we must spend the night
where we were. After carrying all our belongings up to
our camping-ground, we took the boat to pieces and hauled
her up too. Raising the two halves on end, we contrived
behind them to get a certain amount of shelter against the
wind. We had just finished our preparations when the
rain came ; but by tilting each half-boat at an angle and
supporting it on an oar, we obtained a roof which kept us
dry. I took one of the life-belts and Kutchuk the other,
and with them for our pillows we succeeded in sleeping
awhile before the night got too cold.
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