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200 ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
then we were lower than we had been for a long time, and
yet for all that we were still considerably above the top of
Mont Blanc. After our recent experiences this Tibetan
lake-land seemed to us like an El Dorado.
Climbing to the top of a hill at the east end of a lake, I
spied out the country ahead. Before me lay outspread yet
another large lake, separated from the one behind me by a
narrow neck of land. Very well, then, let us ride round it
also. Forward ! March ! But the mountains grew more
difficult, and we had to keep to the crest. And what a
wonderful view it offered us—to the north the salt lake we
had last left, and to the south the new fresh-water lakes.
Tibet appeared in that part to be richer in water than in
land. At one point, where the lake was broadest, the brick-
red sandstone cliffs shot vertically downwards into the
water. It was there that we encamped. Here, again, I
went in for a similar adventure to that on the great salt
lake. Next morning, whilst Cherdon and Mollah Shah
continued on round the lake, Kutchuk and I set off to row
across it to its southern shore.
We were in no hurry, for under the mountains were big
shoals of fine fat asmans (fish). Our fishing-tackle was of a
very makeshift description. Our fishing-rods consisted of a
couple of tent-spars ; our hooks were made out of Yoldash’s
collar ; our floats were empty match-boxes, and for bait
we used small pieces of yak-flesh. We anchored the skiff
under the mountain precipice, although its rocks appeared
to hang by only a hair, as if ready to plump down into our
frail craft.
Having lit my pipe and assumed a comfortable position,
I flung out my line, and then gave myself up to a. delicious
dolce far niente, while my match-box float bobbed up and
down, until a good-sized asman succeeded in overcoming
its repugnance to a " collar " hook. We were not fishing
for amusement, we were fishing for food. It is true, our
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