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3o8 ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
back north again ; our route ran south and west, and
I was resolved that I would not deviate from it before I
had made an attempt to penetrate to Lassa, nor return
until I had heard the surf of the Indian Ocean thundering
on the beach.
Our first day’s march from the Kum-kol was full of diffi-
culty. The route led us over some barren hills and across
a river deeply excavated below the level, the bottom of
which consisted of red ooze, while its water was excessively
salt. The surface of the earth was shaped in a most
capricious way, like towers and walls ; it was as though we
were riding through the ruins of an ancient town. When
evening came, we had difficultv in finding anything like a
suitable spot to encamp in, and Camp No. XII. was formed
in the wretchedest region it is possible to imagine. Grass
and fuel we scarcely expected to find, but worse than that
—there was not even a drop of water to be had. Fortu-
nately it began to snow, and we made haste to put out all
the receptacles we had and to spread tent-cloths on the
ground. We let the animals eat their fill of maize, for the
asses would be unable to go with us very far, and it would
be better to consume their loads in this way than to throw
them away. Dovlet turned up towards morning, but with
onlv one-half of his caravan ; the rest would overtake us,
he said, if we were not in too great a hurry. Next day,
therefore, we made only a short stage.
And whilst we are waiting for the asses, it may perhaps
interest you to learn how our camp was arranged. We
always adopted the same p]an. The loads were deposited
in long rows, and at one end of them Turdu Bai had
his tent, which he shared with Hamra Kul, IMollah Shah,
and Rosi Mollah. In the same locality was the tent
which served as a kitchen for preparing my food and
that of the Cossacks ; it was occupied by Kutchuk alone,
for he was assistant to Cherdon, who in the meantime
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