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41
8
ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
shaped estuary the Saju-sangpo emptied itself into the
large lake of Selling-tso, about the middle of its northern
shore. The panorama which unfolded itself as we entered
the lake was magnificent. The turbid grey water of
the river was perceptible a long way out into the lake,
but everywhere else the lake itself was of a brilliant
blue-green colour.
But the day was getting late, and there were big waves
on the lake. Accordingly I deemed it prudent to put back
to shore, where two of the men were waiting for us with
horses to take us back to camp.
All the time that I was on the river, the Tibetan horse-
men swarmed round the caravan and prevented the people
in the tents we passed from selling provisions to the Cos-
sacks, These last, who were more hot-tempered than I
am, sent the Lama to warn the Tibetans that the first man
who came within range after that would be shot down
without further warning. For the rest of the day the
brave national militia of Tibet kept at a respectful distance.
This opportunity we at once seized to buy several sheep
and all the milk food we could get hold of from our nearest
nomad neighbours. And it was fortunate we did so, for
next morning there appeared a fresh troop of over fifty
mounted men, who came and pitched their tents quite close
to us. Some of the newcomers met the Lama and nego-
tiated with him on neutral territory ; but I sent him back
to tell them that unless the highest official amongst them
came in person to visit me in my own camp they need not
hope to make anything out of us.
Apparently that ofiicial found these conditions hard,
for he took three full hours to reflect upon them before
he could prevail upon himself to come and visit me. He
arrived on foot, followed by a bodyguard of ten swordsmen.
We entertained him in the cooking-tent. He was an old
man with a very friendly and sympathetic face. With
I
I
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