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438 ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
ground beside the Yagyu-rapga, I got Ordek to row me
there across the SelHng-tso. Thence we were to start on our
long journey to Ladak. The Tibetans wiUingly showed us
the road ; that is, they guided the caravan, for I myself
chose a more southerly route, in the course of which I
crossed over a pass so steep and so dangerous that, had a
camel slipped and fallen on it, he would certainly have been
crushed to a mummy. Camp No. LXXXIV. was pitched
on the eastern shore of the Chargut-tso, a small lake lying
west of the Selling-tso. Here nothing met the eye but
what was delightful, not to say magnificent. Looking west,
we had a view deep into the fjords of the lake as into the
vistas of a forest of stone. The Tibetans, with their gay-
coloured garments and warlike equipment, suited this wild
scenery excellently. Along the shore, which was like a
natural corso, we counted twenty-five tents, apart from our
own, and yet by far the greater number of the Tibetans
bivouacked around their fires in the open. Indeed, our
escort now numbered 500 men.
Beside this magnificent lake, with its fjord-like scenery, we
remained two days, arranging our programme for the
further journey to Ladak. Hlajeh Tsering informed me
that he had orders from the Dalai Lama to place at our
disposal as many baggage-animals as we required. Accord-
ingly I at once ordered 40 yaks to be procured as soon as
possible. Then the old man gave me a present of two wliite
horses, precisely as Kamba Bombo had done, as well as
provisions ; and other supplies would be furnished to us,
he said, all the way to Ladak. Wonderfully nice people, I
thought
!
At noon on the 19th September the Tibetans treated us
to a very fine spectacle. I asked Hlajeh Tsering to com-
mand a couple of hundred of his cavalry to arrange them-
selves in hue, because I wanted to photograph them. But
it was impossible to get them to stand still for even a
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