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442 ADVENTURES IN TIBET.
a depth of 138 feet, but were unable to take any other
soundings, owing to the violence of the waves. The " seas
"
kept breaking over us until everything in the skiff was
wet. Slowly, slowly we approached the island, and,
after what seemed an age, we got under its lee. Another
spurt brought us to the shore, pretty well spent by our
exertions.
After drawing our boat safely up out of reach of the
waves, we proceeded to shelter ourseh-es behind her and a
felt rug w^hich we propped up. Fortunately there was
plenty of fuel, and whilst Kutchuk lit a lire and prepared
tea, I lay and read " Uncle Tom’s Cabin." The wind
howled and shrilled amongst the rocks, and the surf thun-
dered against the cliff at the western end of the island.
The gale still continued in the afternoon, and so long as it
blew as it did we were prisoners. The sun sank bright
and clear, and the deep shades of night settled down over
our little camp, while the eastern shore was still bathed
in light. But the shades climbed rapidly up the mountain
sides ; the highest summits glowed scarlet and red for a
space, and then day became extinct ; and after a while
darkness reigned supreme, except for the wan light of a
half moon. Kutchuk went off two or three times during
the night to see if the gale had abated. At four we rose,
but the wind was still blowing as hard as ever. As there
were 9° of frost we made haste to build up a gigantic fire.
I wonder what the nomads on the northern shore of the
lake imagined that big glare was on the little island out in
the Chargut-tso ? We waited and waited. At length day
broke in the east, making the mountain-crests stand out
darker against the rapidly lightening background. All at
once the sun burst above them, flashing like a jewel.
The storm, instead of waning, was increasing every
moment. I mapped the island, and then sat and dreamed
for hours, listening to the crash of the waves upon the cliffs
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