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PULLING FOR LIFE. 445
" Keep it up, Kiitchiik ! We are getting nearer ! The
danger is passing !
" Then tlie breaking crest of a wave
swept in all along the starboard gunwale, and the water
began to wash backwards and forwards with every pitch
and rise of the skiff. In came a second wave. We tightened
our grip, till our knuckles whitened and the blisters burned.
W’e literally lifted the skiff through the sea on our oar-
blades. But things could not last much longer like that.
The skiff was half full of water already, and the waves kept
striking in over her bow. We must soon go to the bottom.
" Get your life-belt ready, Kutchuk. And pull, man, pull.
Perhaps she will keep up till we reach that cape."
" Ya, Allah," panted Kutchuk.
It was only by the most strenuous exertions and dogged
persistence that we kept our craft afloat until we reached
shelter and smoother water. We were within an ace of
going to the bottom. In all the expeditions I have made
on the Tibetan lakes I never came so near disaster as on
that occasion. It is not to be recommended—a trip by
night across an unknown lake in a violent gale, in a fragile
canvas skiff, when the storm-clouds are being torn to rags
by the wind, and the white-crested waves are tipped with
silver by the moon.
We were so desperately tired that we flung ourselves
on the beach, pulled the boat over us, and dropped off
to sleep, in spite of the rain rattling all night on the
canvas.
Next morning, favoured by splendid weather, we pro-
ceeded to the end of the Chargut-tso, traversed a very short
connecting arm, and rowed out upon yet another lake.
This we started to cross diagonally, keeping not very far
from the shore. And fortunately for us that we did so, for
ere long we were surprised by a fresh storm. But this time
ail our efforts were in vain. We were unable to make head-
way against the wind, and the waves carried us towards
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