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448
CHAPTER XXX.
WESTWARDS TO LEH,
From this point to Leh, the capital of Ladak, was a distance
of nearly 670 miles, and it cost us very nearly three months
to cover it. Our caravan was in rather a pitiful condition ;
we had only 22 camels left, and all of them were a good
deal spent. But we got on capitally with our escort, who
helped us in arranging camp and in loading up when we
started.
For the first few days we rode up the bank of the Bogg-
tsang-sangpo towards the west-nortli-west. When you
ride day after day in that direction up in Tibet the left
side of your face gets so burned by the sun that the skin
peels off, whilst your right cheek almost " burns " with
the icy cold ;
your left foot is warm and comfortable, but
your right is almost frozen.
Bright and clear flowed the river at our side. One day
Shagdur lingered behind, and when he caught us up he
flourished triumphantly above his head a string of splendid
fish. After that we rested the ist October beside the
Boggtsang-sangpo, and putting the skiff together made
such a glorious catch that for a couple of weeks we lived
almost entirely upon fish.
On the 3rd October, taking Chernoff and the Lama
with me, I climbed to the top of the dominating mountain
of Erenak-chimmo. On our way back to rejoin the
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