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CHAPTER XXXI.
A TRIP TO INDIA.—HOME.
After we turned our backs upon the Panggong-tso, one
of the most magnificent lakes in the world, I left the
caravan and, taking with me Chernoff, Cherdon, and An-
mar Ju, pushed on to Leh at a faster pace. Our route
lay through Tanksi, with its picturesque temple, over the
high pass of Chang-la (17,715 feet), past the temple of
Jimreh and the temple of Tikkseh, beside the majestic
Indus, which rolls its waters all the way from these wintry
abodes to the warmer climes of the Indian Ocean. On the
way I was met by a constant stream of messengers, bringing
letters and telegrams. From the moment I set foot on
British territory, I was overwhelmed with proofs of hos-
pitality and kindness, which went on increasing day by
day until I reached the capital of India. In Leh I found
ready prepared for me a beautiful house, and a caravan-
serai for my animals and men, and heaps of letters from
home. In reply to a telegram to His Majesty Oscar, King
of Sweden, I received a most gracious answer ;
while
another to Lord Curzon, the Viceroy, brought me an in-
vitation to visit him and Lady Curzon at Calcutta.
I spent Christmas Eve with the good, kind missionaries
at Leh. And although I did not understand one word of
the Ladaki sermon which Mr. Ribbach preached, I have
seldom been at a service that impressed me with the same
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